Nicodemi Riserva Nero Moro 2011 Un Montepulciano in Vacanza

"Neromoro", a Riserva that the Nicodemi family wanted to create from the best Montepulciano grapes harvested on a  40 years old  east-facing hillside plot on the Colline Teramane sub-region (DOCG since 2003), Abruzzo, Italy. Soils here are medium texture featuring limestone and clay. Altitude around 300mt asl. Great amount of efforts are put on the vineyard, that is organically and sustainably farmed. In the cellar, long macerations and  long ageing (16months) in barrels characterise the winemaking protocol. The wine is then refined in bottle for 6 months before release.

Tasting Notes (3.8/5)

On the nose it's clean an very modern (so modern, fruity and rubbery that I was shocked thinking this was some sort of Chilean blend). I'm not the only one to have noticed this feature as Jamie Goode did it already long time ago for the 2006 vintage (here). Therefore, I can't imagine this is an occasional reduction defect, but most likely a wanted feature consistently obtained by planned winemaking choices. This modern look may appeal part of the international market, but (in my personal opinion) makes this wine very far from a classy Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Indeed, this episode (like many others) makes me wondering what's the meaning and usefulness of the DOCG system in Italy... Anyway let's keep going on the nose description...notes of black cherries and ripe plums are followed by juniper and coffee and cocoa beans.

On the palate is dry, with medium acidity, medium (velvety) tannins and creamy structure, medium alcohol, medium+ body with good concentration and intensity on the mid palate. Med+ finish.

Of course I would not define this a "Terroir Wine", yet its velvety and modern character will please many.

Very good quality, Drink Now or in the next 5+ years, Premium Price. 100% Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Colline Teramane, Notaresco, Italy.

I will wait and re-evaluate another bottle of this wine later on. I would like to see how things will change with some bottle ageing.



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